Promote Dwarf Car Racing!

As always, we will be happy to link to your dwarf car or mod lite related website. Just contact us. Thanks.

Suzuki Gear Charts

from Jack Van Dyke  "JV"

Bearing kits / bearing with lock rings
BCA 88506BR (8 bolt small bearing) 30mmID x 60mmOD with 40mm retainer ring.
BCA RW124R Ten bolt bearing size unknown ~cost $39.89
BCA 224210 seal for bearing 8 bolt small bearing
BCA 1955 seal for 8 bolt with stock disk brakes (rare) = 52 x 65 x 9
NAPA 20420 seal 10 bolt big bearing?.

Fel-Pro gasket numbers
8 Bolt RDS27412 ~cost $2.30
10 Bolt RDS27413 ~cost $2.60

Pinion Bearings BCA #’s
8 Bolt = S code = 6.38
M86610 cup
M88010 cup
M86649 cone
M88048 cone
Pinion seal 1177

10 Bolt = T code = 6.7
M86610 cup
M88610 cup
M86649 cone
HM88649 cone
Pinion seal 1176

Torque spec’s
0.006 – 0.009 back lash for gears.
Ring gear torque 55 ft/lbs
bearing caps 60 ft/lbs

Tire Pressures
LF 18 RF 22.5
LR 19 RR 22.5
Springs LF 180 RF 200
LR 160 RR 160

Front End specs.
1/8 Toe out.
LF 1 deg Camber
2 deg Caster
RF 4 deg Camber
4 deg Caster

Caster and Camber set using Magnetic base angle finder on backside of brake disk. Caster is checked by turning wheels 20 deg to left or center notating angle finder then 20 deg right of center and noting angle again and taking the difference. 20 Deg = ~6 inches at tread.

Ride Heights with out driver. NOTE: No lower or ball joints may go in to bind!

LF 4 1/2 RF 4 7/8 Every car is different but this set up with chevette

LR 5 1/16 RR 5.0 spindle should not bottom out.

This is done using ½ x ½ angle place between the tires on the scale ramps, After setting tire pressures.

Corner Weights with OUT driver, gas toped off. Your weights will be different!

LF 297 RF 262
LR 305 RR 292

Corner Weights WITH driver, gas toped off.

LF 336 RF 280
LR 366 RR 342.5

Total weight 48.8% cross 53% Left 53.5% Rear. Your total will be different but percentages should be set to the above with driver.

Shock length bolt to bolt.

LF 13 1/2 RF 14 1/8
LR 13 3/4 RR 15 7/8

Sway Bar adjustment @ LF ~ ½ inch space.

By Jack Van Dyke OVDCA

Buying your first Dwarf Car

This information is meant to help a new or prospective Dwarf car racer make his first car purchase. There are many things that you should know but unless you know someone that has experience with these little speed machines you may not have the slightest idea where to begin.

Often time’s people make some very big and costly mistakes by buying first and learning later. The first thing you should do is find out where they race these cars in your area or within a reasonable driving distance from your hometown. Go the races, buy a pit pass and talk to the local racers, they are always friendly and more than willing to show off their cars and talk up the sport. Look around and pay close attention to what you are seeing, you will want to be looking for a car that is similar to the type that these racers run. Is it a “Mod type car”, or do they race classics? They may race both classes and you’ll need some time and a lot more information before making a choice for yourself. Ask what brand of cars that the majority of local racers run, what is the motor of choice. You should probably make several visits to the races and be sure that you really want to try this, it’s not as easy as you might think at a first glance. The speed of these cars is often deceiving from simply watching, but becomes very apparent after strapping yourself in the cockpit and heading down the backstretch with the more experienced drivers blowing past you at unbelievable speeds.

With that all said and done and you still think you’re up for the challenge it’s time to select a car to buy.

The local racers will know of any cars in your area that may be available for sale, and often you can look at it and even see it run and this is always the best way to be sure it’s what you really want. Being a beginner you should buy a “turnkey car”, that is in good condition, complete with all parts in good working order, and race ready. One of the biggest mistakes made by a beginner is to buy a fixer-upper, or an older, outdated chassis, simply because the price is cheaper. If you spend, let’s say $2,500 to $3,000 for an older model classic that will need a lot of updates and a newer motor, you’ve just wasted a lot of time and money. You could easily spend another $4,000 on a newer motor, suspension, shocks, springs, rack and pinion steering, and other related items needed to make a car like this more competitive; it may still not be good enough. Only an experienced racer with good fabricating skills and equipment should ever attempt to update an older car. If you look for a car that already has these items you’ll pay a bit more at first, but much less in the end, and have your first summer to learn the techniques of racing instead trying to keep the old heap running.

There is no comparison between an old two valve, air-cooled motor and a later model liquid cooled four valve motor. A stock liquid cooled 1000 cc motor will make a lot more power and out last an old 1250cc air-cooled motor. Unless your local track has a sportsman class that races these old motors, you should not consider them in your purchase.

Competitive Dwarf cars today use small body, purpose-made racing shocks with 2 7/8″ diameter coil over springs, “Pro”-”Bilstein”-”Carrera” brands but all are ok. The older fat body automotive shocks will not perform as well at all, and should be avoided!

Rack and pinion steering is a must at the speeds we race at today, it allows for quick and firm control between the driver and the car without a lot of free play. A purpose built racing rack (Stilleto or Sweet) is ideal and much better than an automotive rack (Chevette or Pinto) modified to fit a Dwarf car. Chain operated steering should be avoided at all times.

All steering and suspension components are very important and should be inspected closely for any defects, bends and wear. Step sharply on the front and rear bumpers, does the car raise back sharply or does it stick or is it sluggish in rebounding?

Is the car in a good general state of repair, are the body parts in decent condition, free of any sharp edges, have the bumpers been welded in several places to make repairs, has the frame suffered any major damage, are the main roll cage tubes straight and undamaged? All of these things and more need to be inspected before you buy!

If speed is your goal then brakes will be an important thing to check. Four-wheel disk brakes are a must on today’s Dwarf cars. They may be aftermarket type or “OEM” but all four must work well, and drum brakes need to be avoided.

Let me assure you I’m not trying to be a spoiler or discourage anyone from entering into what I consider a great sport but rather to inform you so that you may be better prepared to make that initial purchase without having regrets after you show up at a track only to find your little speed buggy just doesn’t measure up to the competition. So take your time and learn a bit more about these great cars before you jump in and your chance of enjoying the sport will be much greater.

Hope this helps to keep some of you that are thinking about getting into the sport from making the $2500 mistake!

Jack Van Dyke OVDCA (jv@columbus.rr.com)

By Tony Leary

This method is used when the car has been involved in contact and or there are no frame tabs to go by. If your car has tabs this will confirm if they are correct or not.

Place car on level and squared scale ramps. Place two rims in front of the car, place a straight edge (6 foot level) across the rims. Measure from the straight edge (SE) to the lower control arm inner pivot bolt heads. Move straight edge until left and right measurements are equal.(parallel to the lower frame) Now measure from the straight edge to side of the lower control arm near the inner pivot. (Note this length) Now measure from the SE to the outer most points of the lower arm. If not equal loosen the jam nuts on the radius rod and twist the rod until all measurements are equal and lock down the jam nuts. Next do this for the other side. (You want all measurements to be the same so both arms are parallel)

To Square the rear end to the front.

Tools needed: (2) 2 inch “C” clamps, (2) ~ 4 inch ½ x ½ angle, (2) 6 inch string plum bobs, (2) ~ 3 inch lengths of duct tape, Measuring tape 10 foot min.

Clamp angles to lower control arms inner bolts heads. (Heim Joints)

Tape strings over axles tubes (behind) at outer ends ( Make sure they do not touch anything ) by lower rod ends.

Tape hook end of tape measure to tape measure.

Run a measurement to the strings Measure both inline and diagonals. NOTE: subtract .75 for bolt head to center of the heim (if using 1/2inch type), also subtract ½ the axle tube diameter (check the diam on both sides stock Toyota tapers).

Move hook to other side and repeat step 4.

Adjust the rear heims as needed be sure to check the pinion angle.

Note that if your lower control arms are parallel with the front frame rail the straight measurement made in step 4 is your wheelbase.

Make sure to write all final measurements down! Bring everything listed in tools needed to the track. If you have contact run the measurement between rounds.